Choosing parts on a budget
A simple two-wheel robot needs a small board, a motor driver, two geared motors, sensors and batteries. Learn what each part does and how to choose without overspending.
In 60 seconds
Choosing parts on a budget
A simple two-wheel robot needs a small board, a motor driver, two geared motors, sensors and batteries. Learn what each part does and how to choose without overspending.
The parts of a mini robot
| Job | Common generic part | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Brain | Arduino Uno or Nano, ESP32, or Raspberry Pi Pico | Runs your code and reads the sensors |
| Muscles | Two geared DC "TT" motors with wheels | Yellow plastic gearbox motors, common in robot kits |
| Motor driver | A dual motor driver board, such as L298N or TB6612FNG | The board cannot power motors directly; the driver does |
| Senses | HC-SR04 ultrasonic sensor, two IR line sensor modules | The same sensors as in the virtual labs |
| Body | A two-wheel chassis with a caster wheel, or stiff cardboard | A kit chassis is easy; cardboard works for a first try |
| Energy | An AA battery holder (for example 4 × AA) with a switch | Rechargeable AA cells save money over time |
| Wiring | Jumper wires, a small breadboard, screwdriver | A multimeter is very useful for checking voltages |
Choosing the brain
| Board | Good for | Keep in mind |
|---|---|---|
| Arduino Uno or Nano | First projects; lots of beginner examples | Works with 5 V signals; no Wi-Fi on the classic boards |
| ESP32 | Robots you control over Wi-Fi or Bluetooth | Uses 3.3 V signals; some 5 V sensors need care |
| Raspberry Pi Pico | Python on a microcontroller (MicroPython) | Uses 3.3 V signals; the Pico W version adds Wi-Fi |
Choosing the motor driver
- Very common and easy to find
- Big heatsink, bulky
- Loses a noticeable part of the battery voltage as heat, so motors get less
- Small and more efficient
- Lower maximum current, fine for small TT motors
- Has a standby (STBY) pin that must be set HIGH to run
Batteries
Saving money sensibly
- Build the virtual robot first, so you know which sensors you actually need.
- Start with a basic kit or the parts above. Upgrade one thing at a time.
- Share tools like a soldering iron and multimeter within a school or club.
- Reuse: cardboard, old toy wheels and bottle caps can work for a first chassis.
- Do not save money on safety: a proper battery holder with a switch, and a correct charger.
Watch and read more
Lab
A checked parts list and a simple power plan for your own two-wheel robot.
The problem
This is a paper (or spreadsheet) lab. No coding needed.
- Make a table with columns: part, job, quantity, voltage it needs, what I must check.
- Fill it for: one board, one motor driver, two TT motors with wheels, a chassis, an ultrasonic sensor, two IR line sensors, a battery holder, wires.
- Draw a simple power plan: which battery powers the motors, what powers the board, and where all the grounds (GND) connect.
- Write three safety rules you will follow when building, including one about batteries.
- Do not write prices from memory; if you add a price column, fill it from current listings and date it.
You are done when
Hard questions
Try to answer before you reveal. If you can answer these, you understood the lesson.
Q1Your friend wants to power two TT motors from the Arduino's 5 V pin "to save a battery". What do you tell them?Reveal
That pin is meant for small loads like sensors. Motors can draw much more current, especially when starting or stuck, which can make the board reset or damage its regulator or the USB port powering it. Power the motors from a battery through the motor driver, and connect the grounds together.
Q2Why might a robot on 4 × AA cells feel slower with an L298N-type driver than with a TB6612FNG-type driver?Reveal
L298N-type drivers lose a noticeable part of the voltage inside the driver, turned into heat. With only about 6 V from the battery, the motors then get noticeably less voltage and turn slower. The TB6612FNG-type driver loses less, so more of the battery voltage reaches the motors. Check both datasheets for the exact figures.
Questions people ask
Should I buy a full kit or separate parts?
A kit is easier: the parts usually fit together and come with instructions. Separate parts let you choose and learn more, but you must check that everything works together. Both are fine for a first robot. Read reviews and the included parts list carefully.
Can I connect a motor straight to the Arduino pin?
No. A board pin can supply only a very small current, far less than a motor needs. Connecting a motor directly can damage the board. The motor driver takes a small signal from the board and switches the bigger battery current to the motor.
Do I need to solder?
Not always. Many modules come with pins, and you can use jumper wires and a breadboard. Some TT motors come without wires attached, and then soldering is the reliable way. If you solder, learn with an adult first; see the next lesson for safety.
Why does my Arduino reset when the motors start?
Usually the battery voltage drops for a moment when the motors start, and the board resets. Use fresh or charged batteries, make sure all grounds are connected, and consider powering the board and the motors from separate supplies with a shared ground.
Lesson test
5 questions. Get 3 right (60%) to pass and complete this lesson.